Most people never question what happens to their clothes at the dry cleaner. You drop off a jacket, pick it up in a plastic bag with that distinct chemical smell, and hang it in your closet. That smell? It is a solvent called perchloroethylene (perc), and it is classified as a probable human carcinogen by the EPA. Our non-toxic cleaning guide covers everything you need to know.

Perc has been the dominant dry cleaning solvent since the 1930s. It works well at dissolving grease and oil without water, which is why the process is called “dry” cleaning. But the health and environmental costs are significant, and you are quite literally hanging those costs in your closet and wearing them against your skin.

The good news is that you have alternatives. Professional wet cleaning, liquid CO2 cleaning, at-home kits, and good old-fashioned steam cleaning can handle the vast majority of garments labeled “dry clean only.” And here is the part most people do not realize: many of those garments do not actually need dry cleaning at all.

The Problem With Conventional Dry Cleaning

What Is Perc and Why Is It a Concern?

Perchloroethylene (tetrachloroethylene, or perc) is a chlorinated solvent. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a sweet, ether-like odor. If you have ever picked up dry cleaning and noticed that chemical smell, that is perc residue on your clothes.

Here is what the science says:

  • The EPA classifies perc as a “likely human carcinogen”
  • The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies it as a Group 2A carcinogen (probably carcinogenic to humans)
  • The National Toxicology Program lists it as “reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen”
  • Chronic exposure is linked to neurological effects, liver damage, kidney damage, and reproductive harm

Dry cleaning workers face the highest exposure levels, and studies have shown elevated rates of certain cancers among long-term dry cleaning employees. But consumers are not off the hook. Perc residue remains on dry-cleaned garments and off-gases into your closet and your home. A study published in the Journal of Environmental and Public Health found measurable levels of perc in the indoor air of homes where dry-cleaned clothes were stored.

If you live in an apartment above or near a dry cleaner, the exposure can be even higher. The EPA has specifically flagged this as a concern for residential buildings that share space with dry cleaning operations.

Dr. Anne Steinemann, whose research on VOC emissions from consumer products is frequently cited in the indoor air quality field, says dry-cleaned garments are an overlooked source of indoor chemical exposure. The off-gassing can continue for days or even weeks after the garment is brought home.

Other Solvents Used in Conventional Dry Cleaning

Some dry cleaners have moved away from perc but replaced it with solvents that raise their own concerns:

  • Hydrocarbon solvents (like DF-2000) - petroleum-derived, less toxic than perc but still a VOC and potential skin irritant. Better than perc, but not ideal.
  • GreenEarth (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, or D5) - a silicone-based solvent marketed as eco-friendly. D5 has faced scrutiny from European regulators over potential environmental persistence and bioaccumulation. The safety profile is better than perc, but calling it “green” is a stretch.
  • N-propyl bromide (nPB) - used by some cleaners as a perc alternative. The EPA considers it a potential neurotoxin, and it is arguably no better than perc from a health standpoint.

The point is that “perc-free” on a dry cleaner’s sign does not automatically mean safe. You need to know what solvent they are actually using.

The Best Non-Toxic Dry Cleaning Alternatives

1. Professional Wet Cleaning

Wet cleaning is the gold standard for non-toxic garment care, and it has been recognized by the EPA as the safest professional cleaning method available. It uses water, biodegradable detergents, and computer-controlled washers and dryers that precisely manage temperature, agitation, and moisture levels for different fabrics.

Modern wet cleaning technology can handle virtually everything that perc-based dry cleaning can, including silk, wool, cashmere, linen, and even most “dry clean only” structured garments like blazers and suit jackets. The equipment is sophisticated enough to clean delicate fabrics without shrinking, stretching, or distorting them.

How to find a wet cleaner:

  • Search for “professional wet cleaning” or “EPA-recognized wet cleaning” in your area
  • Ask your local cleaners directly: “Do you offer wet cleaning as an alternative to solvent-based cleaning?”
  • Check if your area has cleaners certified by organizations like Green Cleaners Council
  • Look for cleaners that specifically advertise “no solvents” or “solvent-free”

Cost: Wet cleaning typically costs the same as conventional dry cleaning, sometimes slightly more for complex garments. The price difference, if any, is usually a few dollars per item.

Limitations: Some heavily structured garments with glued interlinings (like certain older suit jackets) can be challenging for wet cleaning. A good wet cleaner will tell you upfront if a garment is not a good candidate.

2. Liquid CO2 Cleaning

Liquid carbon dioxide cleaning uses pressurized CO2 as a solvent. At the right pressure and temperature, CO2 becomes a liquid that dissolves oils and dirt effectively. When the pressure is released, the CO2 returns to gas and evaporates completely, leaving no residue on your clothes.

This is arguably the most technologically impressive alternative. The CO2 used is typically recycled from industrial processes (it is not creating new emissions), and the cleaning performance is excellent on oil-based stains and general soiling.

The biggest limitation is availability. CO2 cleaning machines are expensive, so there are far fewer CO2 cleaners than conventional dry cleaners. You may need to search for one, and it may not be in your immediate area.

How to find a CO2 cleaner:

  • Search for “CO2 dry cleaning” or “liquid CO2 cleaning” in your area
  • The Solvair system is one of the more common CO2 cleaning technologies; you can check their locator
  • Some high-end garment care services in major cities offer CO2 cleaning

Cost: Usually comparable to conventional dry cleaning. Sometimes slightly higher due to the specialized equipment.

Limitations: Fewer locations available. Less effective on water-soluble stains (like sweat and food spills) compared to wet cleaning.

3. At-Home Dry Cleaning Kits (Dryel)

Dryel is the most well-known at-home dry cleaning kit. It works by placing your garments in a bag with a damp cleaning cloth, then tumbling them in your home dryer. The heat activates the cleaning solution on the cloth, and the steam helps refresh and clean the garments.

Let me be honest about what Dryel can and cannot do. It is good for freshening clothes between professional cleanings, removing light odors, and relaxing minor wrinkles. It is not a replacement for actual cleaning. If a garment has stains, significant body soil, or heavy odors, Dryel will not get it clean.

Looking at the ingredient list, Dryel’s cleaning cloths contain surfactants and fragrance. The fragrance is synthetic, which puts it below truly non-toxic options in terms of chemical exposure. It is still a massive improvement over perc-based dry cleaning, but it is not completely clean.

When Dryel makes sense:

  • Refreshing garments that are not visibly dirty
  • Between-wearing touch-ups for suits and blazers
  • Removing light cigarette smoke or cooking odors
  • Quick wrinkle reduction without ironing

When Dryel does not make sense:

  • Stained garments
  • Heavily soiled items
  • Anything that needs actual deep cleaning

Cost: About $10 for a starter kit that cleans roughly 6 garments.

4. Steam Cleaning at Home

A garment steamer is one of the most underrated tools for clothing care. Steam kills bacteria, eliminates odors, relaxes wrinkles, and refreshes fabrics without any chemicals at all. For many garments labeled “dry clean only,” regular steaming between washes is all you need.

Steam works by penetrating fabric fibers with hot water vapor. This kills odor-causing bacteria (most bacteria die above 160 degrees F, and steam reaches 212 degrees F), relaxes wrinkles without the pressure and shine risk of ironing, and refreshes the “hand” (feel) of fabrics like wool and silk.

What steam cleaning does well:

  • Kills bacteria and eliminates odors
  • Removes wrinkles without pressing
  • Refreshes garments between actual cleanings
  • Works on virtually all fabrics (including delicates)
  • Uses zero chemicals

What steam cleaning does not do:

  • Remove stains
  • Remove body soil or oils
  • Replace actual washing or cleaning for heavily worn garments

A good handheld garment steamer costs $30-80 and lasts for years. It is one of the best investments you can make for clothing care.

5. Hand Washing

For many “dry clean only” garments, careful hand washing is the simplest and most effective alternative. This is especially true for natural fibers like silk, wool, and cashmere, which are often labeled “dry clean only” not because they cannot get wet, but because the manufacturer wants to avoid liability for shrinkage or damage caused by machine washing.

Hand washing with a non-toxic wool and delicates wash gives you full control over water temperature, agitation level, and soak time. It is gentler than any machine cycle and uses no solvents.

Basic hand washing method for delicates:

  1. Fill a clean basin with cool to lukewarm water
  2. Add a small amount of pH-neutral delicates wash
  3. Submerge the garment and gently swish (do not wring, twist, or scrub)
  4. Let it soak for 15-30 minutes
  5. Drain and refill with clean water for rinsing
  6. Gently press out excess water (roll in a clean towel to absorb moisture)
  7. Lay flat or hang to dry (never hang wet knits, which will stretch)

This method works beautifully for silk blouses, cashmere sweaters, wool scarves, lace, and most delicate fabrics.

Which Fabrics Actually Need Dry Cleaning?

Here is the part that saves you the most money and chemical exposure: most garments labeled “dry clean only” do not actually require dry cleaning. The care label is often a conservative recommendation from the manufacturer, not a technical requirement.

Fabrics That Can Almost Always Be Hand Washed or Wet Cleaned

  • Silk - hand wash in cool water with a gentle detergent. Silk is stronger wet than most people think. Avoid wringing and lay flat to dry.
  • Wool - hand wash in cool water with a non-toxic wool wash. The key is avoiding temperature changes and agitation, which cause felting.
  • Cashmere - same as wool. Hand wash gently in cool water. Cashmere actually gets softer with hand washing over time.
  • Cotton - almost never needs dry cleaning. If a cotton garment says “dry clean only,” it is usually about construction (linings, interfacing) rather than the fabric itself.
  • Linen - machine washable in most cases. Linen wrinkles are part of the fabric’s character. Hand wash if the garment has delicate construction.
  • Polyester - fully machine washable. If a polyester garment says dry clean only, it is about the construction or embellishments, not the fabric.

Fabrics That Genuinely Benefit From Professional Cleaning

  • Structured suits and blazers - the internal construction (canvas, padding, fusible interfacing) can be damaged or distorted by home washing. Professional wet cleaning handles these best.
  • Leather and suede - require specialized cleaning. Do not attempt at home.
  • Heavily embellished garments - beading, sequins, and metallic thread can be damaged by water and agitation.
  • Velvet - can crush and watermark with home cleaning. Steaming is fine, but washing is risky.
  • Acetate and rayon (some types) - these fibers can shrink significantly when wet. Some rayon is washable; some is not. Test on a hidden area first.
  • Garments with heavy staining - if you have a significant stain on a valuable garment, professional cleaning (wet or CO2) is worth the cost.

The “Dry Clean Only” Label Is Often Overcautious

The FTC requires clothing manufacturers to provide at least one safe cleaning method on the care label. Many manufacturers default to “dry clean only” because it is the safest recommendation from a liability standpoint. If they say “dry clean only” and you hand wash it and something goes wrong, that is on you. If they say “machine wash” and the garment shrinks, they are on the hook.

This means the “dry clean only” label often reflects legal caution rather than actual fabric requirements. Use the fabric guide above and your own judgment. When in doubt, test on a hidden area first.

How to Transition Away From Conventional Dry Cleaning

If you currently take clothes to a perc-based dry cleaner regularly, here is a practical transition plan:

Step 1: Assess What Actually Needs Professional Cleaning

Go through your “dry clean only” wardrobe. Separate items into three categories:

  1. Can hand wash at home - silk blouses, wool sweaters, cashmere, scarves, most unstructured garments
  2. Can steam and refresh at home - suits worn occasionally, blazers, coats that are not heavily soiled
  3. Genuinely need professional cleaning - structured suits, leather, heavily stained items, complex construction

Most people find that category 1 and 2 cover 70-80% of their “dry clean only” clothes.

Step 2: Find a Wet Cleaner or CO2 Cleaner

For the items that do need professional cleaning, find a wet cleaner or CO2 cleaner in your area. You can also ask your current dry cleaner if they offer wet cleaning. Many cleaners have added wet cleaning equipment alongside their solvent machines.

Step 3: Invest in Basic Home Equipment

For about $50-100, you can set up a home garment care station:

  • A good garment steamer ($30-80)
  • A non-toxic wool and delicates wash ($10-15)
  • A mesh laundry bag for machine-washing delicate items ($5-10)
  • A flat drying rack or clean towel for laying knits flat ($15-25)

Step 4: Reduce the Need for Cleaning

Good garment care reduces how often clothes need cleaning in the first place:

  • Air out garments between wearings instead of tossing them directly in the hamper
  • Spot clean small marks immediately rather than waiting for a full cleaning
  • Steam regularly to kill bacteria and refresh fabrics
  • Use garment bags when storing seasonal items to keep them dust-free
  • Wear undershirts to protect dress shirts and jackets from body soil

Airing Out Perc-Treated Garments

If you still have garments that were recently perc-cleaned, do not hang them directly in your closet. Remove the plastic bag (that bag traps chemicals against the fabric), and hang the garments in a well-ventilated area for at least 24-48 hours before bringing them into your bedroom or closet.

For garments with a strong chemical smell, hang them outdoors on a covered porch or in a garage with good air circulation. The off-gassing will dissipate faster in moving air.

This is a good habit even if you are transitioning to non-toxic cleaning. Any garments in your current wardrobe that were previously dry cleaned with perc may still carry residual solvent. Giving them a good airing out (or running them through a home wash if the fabric allows) reduces your ongoing exposure.

For more ways to reduce chemical exposure in your home, our guide to detoxing your home covers strategies room by room.

Reader Questions

Is perc-free dry cleaning always safe?

Not necessarily. “Perc-free” just means the cleaner is not using perchloroethylene. They might be using hydrocarbon solvents, GreenEarth (D5 silicone), or n-propyl bromide, all of which have their own concerns. Ask your cleaner specifically what solvent or method they use. The safest professional options are wet cleaning and liquid CO2 cleaning, both of which use no organic solvents at all.

Can I machine wash “dry clean only” clothes?

It depends on the fabric and construction. Many “dry clean only” silk, wool, cotton, and linen garments can be safely hand washed. Machine washing is riskier because of the agitation, but using a mesh bag on a delicate/hand wash cycle with cold water and a gentle non-toxic detergent works for many items. Always test on a hidden area first, and never machine wash structured garments, leather, or heavily embellished items.

Does steam cleaning actually clean clothes or just refresh them?

Steam cleaning refreshes and deodorizes but does not remove stains or deep body soil. It is excellent for killing bacteria (which eliminates most odors), relaxing wrinkles, and making garments look and feel fresh between actual cleanings. Think of it as maintenance, not deep cleaning. For garments you wear occasionally and that are not visibly dirty, steaming between wearings can significantly reduce how often you need actual cleaning.

How do I find a non-toxic dry cleaner near me?

Search for “professional wet cleaning,” “CO2 dry cleaning,” or “green dry cleaning” in your area. Call and ask specifically: “What cleaning method and solvent do you use?” If they say “we use GreenEarth” or “we use hydrocarbon,” that is better than perc but not solvent-free. True wet cleaners and CO2 cleaners will be happy to explain their process because it is a selling point.

Are Dryel and other at-home kits really non-toxic?

Dryel is significantly less toxic than perc-based dry cleaning, but it is not completely free of synthetic chemicals. The cleaning cloths contain surfactants and synthetic fragrance. For truly non-toxic at-home garment care, hand washing with a clean detergent or steaming with plain water are better options. Dryel occupies a middle ground: fine for occasional freshening, but not the cleanest option available.

Is it worth the effort to switch from conventional dry cleaning?

If you dry clean frequently, the switch reduces your exposure to perc (a probable carcinogen) and other solvents significantly. It also saves money over time, since hand washing, steaming, and reducing cleaning frequency all cost less than regular dry cleaning. For most people, the transition is easier than expected because so many “dry clean only” garments can be safely cleaned at home with a little knowledge and the right approach. Your overall laundry routine becomes simpler when you stop treating the “dry clean only” label as an absolute rule.

Our Take

Conventional dry cleaning exposes you to perc, a probable carcinogen that off-gases from your clothes and into your home. You do not need to accept this. Professional wet cleaning and CO2 cleaning are effective, solvent-free alternatives for garments that genuinely need professional care. For everything else, hand washing, steaming, and smart garment care habits handle the job without any chemicals.

The “dry clean only” label on most garments is a conservative recommendation, not a requirement. Once you learn which fabrics can be safely washed at home, you will find that the dry cleaner trip becomes a rare event rather than a weekly routine. Your clothes last longer, your exposure to solvents drops to zero, and your wallet thanks you.

Start by investing in a garment steamer and a bottle of non-toxic wool wash. Those two things will cover 80% of your “dry clean only” wardrobe. For the rest, find a wet cleaner in your area and never think about perc again.

This article was independently researched and written by NonToxicLab. We are not sponsored by any brand mentioned. See our full affiliate disclosure for details.

Sources

You Might Also Like